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Written by Peter Barriscale L.I.P.F.
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Monday, 05 March 2007 |
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Most people will have got shots back from the processors where the subject is underexposed or even a silhouette. This usually happens when they have a bright background behind them such as a window, a white wall or even just a lot of sky with the subject taking up only a small area of the frame. This happens because of the way the light meter in your camera works. These meters read light reflcted from the viewfinder area and are calibrated to what is called an 18% grey - i.e. it tries to average out the light levels to give this average or fairly even lighting when calculating the aperture and shutter settings for "correct" exposure. When an area in the viewfinder frame is very dark or very bright the meter is" fooled"into under or overexposure of the subject. In other words, when the background is very bright, the camera exposes for the higher light level leaving the subject area too dark. When the majority of the frame is very dark, the opposite occurs - the subject will be overexposed. | | No comments for this item |
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Last Updated ( Saturday, 12 May 2007 )
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Written by Peter Barriscale L.I.P.F.
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Monday, 05 March 2007 |
When we start out on the road as budding photographers we all have hopes of producing those extra-special, superb and memorable shots on a regular basis. As with most things, we would all like to start at the top and work our way down to mediocre but that just ain't the way it works!
So just how do you gauge your improvements from beginner to competent photographer? Follow the guidelines below for evaluating your work and you should see a steady improvement with every roll of film you shoot as the criteria for good images become embedded in your brain. Eventually, as you become fully "au fait" with your own equipment, things like composition, focusing and the desired exposure will start to fall into place in your mind, even as you raise the camera to take the shot. | | No comments for this item |
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Last Updated ( Saturday, 12 May 2007 )
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Written by Peter Barriscale L.I.P.F.
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Monday, 05 March 2007 |
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This month we look at how to make your subject stand out from its background and give a 3D effect by throwing the background out of focus. The technique is known as Differential Focus and is very simple. All you need is to be able to adjust the aperture setting on your camera. | | No comments for this item |
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Last Updated ( Saturday, 12 May 2007 )
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Written by Peter Barriscale L.I.P.F.
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Monday, 05 March 2007 |
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Last time, in "Differential Focus", we saw how to keep depth of field shallow in order to throw the background out of focus and concentrate attention on the subject. This month we are going to achieve the opposite effect of maximising the depth of field - in other words, everything in the shot will be sharp from the front right through to the back of the image. | | No comments for this item |
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Last Updated ( Saturday, 12 May 2007 )
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Written by Peter Barriscale L.I.P.F.
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Monday, 05 March 2007 |
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This month we explain some ways to improve your shots through effective composition. Composition has nothing to do with the type of camera used but how you use the camera you have! | | No comments for this item |
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Last Updated ( Saturday, 12 May 2007 )
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Written by Harry Reynolds L.I.P.F.
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Monday, 05 March 2007 |
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Photoshop provides four sharpening options in its Filter Menu but the only sharpening filter you will really need is UNSHARP MASK. This sounds like a contradiction, but in fact it arises from a process where a soft unsharp negative was sandwiched next to the original positive image during exposure. This resulted in an increase in edge sharpness. Thankfully Photoshop does all of this work for us digitally. | | This item includes 1 comment |
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Last Updated ( Saturday, 12 May 2007 )
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